Common Sprinkler System Issues (2026) and How to Fix Them

TLDR: Most sprinkler system issues fall into four categories: water delivery problems (pressure, leaks, clogs), control problems (controller, wiring, valves), distribution problems (coverage, nozzles, head spacing), and maintenance or compliance problems (broken heads, runoff, backflow). This glossary translates common symptoms into plain English, explains what each one usually means, and helps you decide whether it’s a quick check or a call to a professional. If you’re in Lubbock or West Texas, local watering rules make fixing these problems more urgent than you might think.

Homeowners rarely search for “diaphragm failure” or “lateral line break.” They search for what they see: weak spray, a soggy patch in the yard, one zone that won’t turn on, or a water bill that doubled overnight. The gap between the symptom you notice and the technical cause behind it is where confusion, wasted water, and bad decisions live.

This glossary bridges that gap. Each entry defines the issue in plain language, describes what it looks like, lists the likely causes, and tells you when a safe first check is enough versus when to call in help.

The stakes are real. According to the EPA, an automatic irrigation system that isn’t properly maintained can waste up to 25,000 gallons of water per year. In arid regions like West Texas, outdoor water use can account for 60% of total household consumption, and as much as half of that water can be lost to wind, evaporation, and runoff from inefficient systems source. Sprinkler system issues aren’t just about brown grass. They’re about water waste, utility bills, plant health, and (in Lubbock) local code compliance.

If you already have a broken head, leaking zone, or system that won’t run correctly, schedule a sprinkler repair visit to get it diagnosed.

Quick Diagnostic Table: Match the Symptom to the Likely Problem

Before reading the full glossary, use this table to narrow down what you’re dealing with.

This table covers the most common sprinkler system issues, but symptoms often overlap. The glossary below goes deeper.

Common Sprinkler System Issues and What They Mean

Low Water Pressure

What it means: Sprinklers spray weakly, heads don’t pop up fully, or water doesn’t reach the intended area.

What it looks like: Short spray radius, drooping streams, heads that barely rise, dry areas at the edge of coverage.

Likely causes: Leak somewhere in the zone, partially closed shutoff valve, clogged filter or nozzle, too many heads on one zone, undersized pipe, backflow restriction, mainline problem, pressure regulator issue, or a change in municipal supply pressure.

Oklahoma State Extension notes that residential water pressure is ideally about 40 to 60 psi, and low irrigation pressure can prevent heads from popping up, reduce spray distance, and create brown areas or donut-shaped dry patterns around heads source.

First safe check: Run the weak zone and compare it against a known-good zone. If only one zone is weak, the problem is probably local to that zone. If everything is weak, look upstream.

Call a pro when: Pressure stays weak after confirming water is on and the shutoff is fully open, or when you find soggy ground along the zone.

Low Flow

What it means: Not enough water volume reaches the zone, even if static pressure seems acceptable when nothing is running.

What it looks like: A zone starts but heads don’t fully rise. Multiple heads may dribble instead of spraying.

Likely causes: Flow restriction from a clogged valve, blocked filter, partially closed shutoff, kinked pipe, broken pipe sending water underground, or a zone that was designed with too many heads for the available supply.

Homeowners often say “low pressure” when the real problem is a flow restriction. Static pressure (what you measure when nothing is running) and dynamic pressure (what’s available once heads are open and water is moving) are two different things. Practitioners on Reddit’s irrigation forums frequently point this out, noting that a homeowner measuring pressure at a hose bib with a gauge sees one number, but the system performs based on what’s left after friction loss, elevation changes, and head demand eat into the supply.

High Pressure, Misting, and Fogging

What it means: Water leaves the nozzle as fine mist instead of larger droplets.

What it looks like: Fog around spray heads, water drifting in the wind, wet sidewalks but dry turf, and higher water use than expected.

Likely causes: System pressure above the nozzle’s recommended range, missing pressure regulation, wrong nozzles, or pressure surges.

Both the EPA and Oklahoma State Extension agree that high pressure can be just as damaging as low pressure. It creates fine mist that wind carries away or that evaporates before reaching the ground, leading to excessive flow and uneven coverage source. Oklahoma State notes that spray heads generally need about 30 psi, rotors about 45 psi, and drip about 20 psi. When pressure far exceeds those ranges, you’re wasting water.

Lubbock relevance: City of Lubbock code specifically addresses misting from excessive water pressure as a prohibited operating condition source.

Uneven Coverage

What it means: The system waters some areas more than others.

What it looks like: Green and brown patches in the same zone, dry corners, puddles near one set of heads, oversaturated strips next to parched strips.

Likely causes: Misaligned heads, clogged nozzles, wrong nozzle type, poor head spacing, blocked spray, low pressure, high pressure, mixed head types on the same zone, or poor original design.

First safe check: Run each zone and walk the property. Mark heads that aren’t spraying correctly, spraying the wrong direction, or not reaching the next head.

Dry Spots

What it means: Areas that stay brown, crispy, or stressed even though the sprinkler system runs on schedule.

Likely causes: Blocked nozzle, misaligned head, poor head spacing, low pressure, a leak reducing downstream pressure, compacted soil, poor scheduling, or tree and root competition for water.

The Saving Water Partnership says brown spots indicate sprinkler spray isn’t reaching the area sufficiently and recommends adjusting or replacing nozzles before increasing watering time source. This is important: adding runtime to fix a dry spot usually oversoaks the areas that already receive plenty of water. Fix the coverage problem first.

If dry spots persist after head and nozzle corrections, the cause may not be mechanical at all. Soil compaction, tree root competition, and shade patterns can create persistent stress that no amount of runtime will fix.

Soggy Spots and Wet Areas

What it means: An area stays wet, muddy, softer than surrounding turf, or noticeably greener than the rest of the lawn.

Likely causes: Underground leak, broken lateral line, leaking fitting, cracked head body, stuck valve, drainage issue, or overwatering.

First safe check: Note whether the area is wet all the time or only after the system runs. Constant wetness, even with the system off, points to a mainline leak or a valve that won’t close. Wetness that appears only after a zone runs usually means a lateral line break or broken head.

The Saving Water Partnership notes that unusually green grass can also signal a leak, because the constant trickle of water feeds that area more than the scheduled irrigation feeds the rest of the lawn.

Broken Sprinkler Head

What it means: A head that’s cracked, missing its top, spraying like a geyser, stuck down, stuck up, tilted, or damaged by mowing, foot traffic, or freezing.

What it looks like: Geyser spray, bubbling around the base, flooding, no pop-up, or spray aimed in the wrong direction.

The EPA notes that broken or damaged heads can be hard to spot because many systems run overnight or early morning source. If you’ve never run your system during daylight to watch it, you may have no idea a head has been broken for weeks.

Lubbock relevance: City code lists broken or missing sprinkler heads as examples of controllable leaks, meaning they’re not just a nuisance. They can be a code issue source.

Clogged Nozzle or Screen

What it means: Debris, dirt, sand, or mineral buildup blocks the nozzle opening or the filter screen inside the head.

What it looks like: Distorted spray, partial arc, one weak head in an otherwise normal zone, or a dry patch near a specific head.

First safe check: You can often unscrew the nozzle from a spray head by hand (when the zone is off) and rinse the screen. Replace any nozzle that’s cracked or heavily calcified.

Head Won’t Pop Up

What it means: The pop-up riser doesn’t extend fully when the zone runs.

Likely causes: Low pressure in the zone, dirt packed around the riser, worn seal or spring, grass overgrowth around the head, clogged body, buried head, or a cracked housing.

Run the zone and watch closely. If the head barely lifts, low pressure or flow restriction is likely. If it doesn’t move at all, dirt, grass, or a broken body is more probable.

Head Won’t Retract

What it means: The riser stays up after the zone finishes. Usually caused by dirt in the seal, a worn spring, grass interference, or age. This is typically a head-level repair.

Overspray

What it means: Sprinkler water lands on sidewalks, driveways, streets, fences, walls, or other non-landscaped surfaces.

Likely causes: Misaligned heads, wrong nozzle arc setting, heads installed too close to pavement, wrong head type for the location, high pressure, or poor original design.

The EPA says irrigation water landing on hardscapes runs to storm drains instead of reaching the landscape source. Lubbock code requires certain systems to be designed so heads spray only toward pervious or landscaped areas. If your system has chronic overspray, the fix may be design correction or irrigation renovation rather than simply adjusting an arc.

Runoff

What it means: Water flows off the lawn or landscape before soaking into the soil.

Likely causes: Runtime too long for the soil’s intake rate, sloped yard, compacted soil, high-precipitation-rate nozzles, or high pressure.

Solution concept (cycle-and-soak): Split one long watering time into shorter cycles with rest periods so water can absorb between applications. The EPA recommends this approach where runoff occurs, and the Saving Water Partnership suggests breaking watering into two or more shorter cycles with about 30 minutes between them.

Lubbock’s irrigation guidelines specifically say to irrigate without runoff source.

Low-Head Drainage

What it means: Water drains out of the lowest sprinkler heads in a zone after that zone shuts off.

What it looks like: Water seeps from the lowest heads for a few minutes after the cycle ends, then stops. The area around those heads may stay wet.

Why it matters: Homeowners often confuse low-head drainage with a leaking valve. The difference is timing. Low-head drainage stops once the residual water in the pipes has drained out. A leaking valve keeps going. Check-valve heads or inline check valves can stop low-head drainage source.

Leaking Valve (Valve Weeping)

What it means: A zone control valve doesn’t seal fully, so water seeps into the zone even when the controller is off.

What it looks like: Wet heads long after shutdown, low continuous trickle from heads, soggy area near the valve or downstream, or a zone that slowly fills with water.

Likely causes: Debris on the diaphragm or valve seat, torn or worn diaphragm, damaged seat, solenoid or bleed screw not tightened, valve installed backward, or insufficient pressure for the valve to close properly.

Hunter Industries states that debris is the most common reason a valve remains on or weeps source. Practitioners on Reddit’s irrigation forums consistently confirm this, noting that homeowners often suspect a bad solenoid when the real culprit is a grain of sand or a bit of mineral scale sitting on the diaphragm seat.

Safety note: Hunter warns that opening a valve under pressure is dangerous. If you’re not experienced with valve disassembly, turn off the water supply first or call a professional.

Diaphragm

What it means: The rubberized internal seal inside an irrigation valve that prevents water from flowing through when the valve is closed. When a technician says “your diaphragm is torn,” they mean this flexible rubber disc inside the valve body needs replacement. It’s one of the most common valve repair parts.

Solenoid

What it means: The electrical component on top of an irrigation valve that receives the low-voltage signal (typically 24 VAC) from the controller and opens the valve.

Common confusion: A bad solenoid often causes a zone not to turn on. Weeping or leaking from heads when the system is off is usually a diaphragm, debris, or seat problem, not a solenoid problem. Reddit irrigation communities frequently clarify this distinction for homeowners who replace solenoids unnecessarily when the valve just needs cleaning.

Zone Won’t Turn On

What it means: The controller shows a station running, but no water comes out in that zone.

Likely causes: Water shutoff closed, controller or programming issue, broken wire, bad wire splice, failed solenoid, clogged solenoid exhaust port, stuck valve, master valve issue, rain sensor interrupting operation, or a backflow/shutoff problem upstream.

Hunter’s troubleshooting guidance lists all of these possibilities and recommends checking for proper 24 to 28 VAC at the controller terminals and at the valve wire splice source.

Diagnostic clue from practitioners: One homeowner on Reddit described sprinklers that barely turned on from the controller but worked fine when manually operated at the valve. After measuring low voltage output, they replaced the controller and the zone worked. If a valve responds to manual operation but not to the controller, the problem is almost certainly on the electrical side: controller, wiring, splice, or solenoid.

Zone Won’t Turn Off

What it means: Sprinklers keep running after their scheduled time ends, or they run when the controller is completely off.

Likely causes: Debris holding the valve diaphragm open, bleed screw left open, solenoid turned to the manual-on position, controller continuously sending power, wiring issue (shorted wire activating the valve), or valve damage.

A Reddit user described a system where the front yard ran at half pressure the instant the main water was turned on, regardless of the controller. Responders identified the key diagnostic clue: water moving when no zone should be active usually points to a valve that’s mechanically stuck open, a bleed screw that’s ajar, or a line break upstream that’s bypassing the valve entirely.

Controller (Timer / Clock)

What it means: The device that opens and closes valves according to your watering schedule.

Common controller issues: Wrong start times, multiple programs accidentally stacked (creating overlapping runs), dead backup battery causing schedule loss after power outage, failed transformer, rain sensor bypass switch in the wrong position, or confusion with Wi-Fi app settings.

The controller doesn’t push water. It sends a low-voltage electrical signal to valves. If there’s no water, the controller may be doing its job perfectly, and the problem is on the water side.

Common Wire Problem

What it means: A wiring issue affecting the shared return wire that multiple valves use to complete the electrical circuit back to the controller.

What it looks like: Several zones fail at once, intermittent zone operation, or zones that work when manually bled at the valve but not from the controller.

One useful diagnostic from a Stack Exchange thread: if a zone operates at full pressure when you manually open the valve but runs weakly or not at all from the controller, the issue is likely electrical (solenoid, wiring, common wire, or controller output), not a water supply problem.

Master Valve

What it means: A main control valve installed on the irrigation mainline that opens before individual zone valves operate. It acts as a system-wide shutoff controlled by the controller.

Why it matters: A failed or closed master valve can make every zone appear broken. If all zones stop working at the same time, the master valve is one of the first things to check.

Backflow Preventer

What it means: A device or assembly that prevents irrigation water (which may contain fertilizer, soil bacteria, or chemicals) from flowing backward into the drinking water supply.

TCEQ explains that cross-connections and backflow can contaminate potable water. In one example, a hose submerged in a pesticide tank created a backflow risk when water pressure dropped and flow reversed source.

Texas requirements: Texas Administrative Code requires backflow prevention assemblies to be tested by a licensed tester upon installation, repair, replacement, or relocation. Assemblies designated as health hazards must be tested annually source.

If your backflow preventer needs testing, repair, replacement, or written certification, M&M provides licensed backflow testing and repairs in Lubbock and West Texas through their Texas-licensed BPAT.

Lateral Line

What it means: The pipe downstream of a zone control valve that carries water to the sprinkler heads in that zone.

Typical issue: A lateral line break causes one-zone low pressure, bubbling soil, a wet spot along the pipe path, or dry areas downstream of the break where water never arrives.

Mainline Leak

What it means: A leak in the constantly pressurized pipe that supplies water from the meter or point of connection to the zone valves.

What it looks like: Water meter spinning when all water use in the house is off, a wet area even when no zone is running, persistent pressure loss across all zones, or water surfacing near valve boxes or the backflow preventer.

The Saving Water Partnership recommends using the water meter to identify underground leaks: turn off all water, note the meter reading, wait 30 minutes, and check again source.

Pressure Regulator and Pressure-Regulating Sprinkler Body

What it means: A component that reduces or stabilizes pressure so nozzles operate within their intended range.

EPA WaterSense says pressure-regulating spray sprinkler bodies can save nearly 5,600 gallons per year in systems operating at or above 60 psi source.

Practical warning from practitioners: Reddit irrigation professionals caution against installing pressure-regulating heads without first measuring actual pressure at the head location. If your pressure is already below the regulator’s operating threshold, you’re spending money on parts that won’t help and may actually restrict flow further.

Rain and Freeze Sensor

What it means: A sensor that tells the controller to skip irrigation during rain or freezing conditions.

Lubbock’s irrigation guidelines say not to water during precipitation and not to irrigate when temperatures are below 35°F source. A working rain/freeze sensor automates compliance with both rules.

Smart Controller (Weather-Based Controller)

What it means: A controller that adjusts irrigation schedules based on weather data, evapotranspiration rates, soil moisture, or other inputs rather than relying solely on a fixed clock schedule.

EPA WaterSense says replacing a clock-based controller with a WaterSense-labeled controller can reduce irrigation water use by up to 30% and save up to 15,000 gallons annually source.

A LinkedIn practitioner from Questr Automation frames soil-moisture-based irrigation as a way to stop fixed schedules from watering when the soil is already wet, reducing both waste and plant stress.

Flow Monitoring and Leak Alerts

What it means: A monitoring setup that detects abnormal water flow, which may indicate a broken head, a pipe leak, a stuck valve, or a clog.

Flow monitoring catches problems between scheduled inspections. Instead of discovering a broken head when the water bill arrives, the system flags unusual flow and can alert you or your irrigation company.

Seasonal Programming

What it means: Adjusting sprinkler runtimes by season so the system doesn’t apply the same amount of water in March as it does in July, or run at all during a freeze.

This sounds obvious, but a surprising number of systems run the same schedule year-round. Seasonal adjustments account for changes in temperature, daylight, rainfall, and plant demand.

One-Zone Problems vs. Whole-System Problems

This distinction is the single most useful diagnostic step, and most generic “common sprinkler problems” articles skip it entirely.

If one zone is bad and the rest are fine, the problem is almost certainly local to that zone. Think: heads, nozzles, lateral line, zone valve, solenoid, zone wire, or zone design. A Home Improvement Stack Exchange thread about one low-pressure zone illustrates this well: if only one zone lacks pressure while others work normally, a leak in the pipes between the zone valve and the heads is likely, and some leaks may stay underground without surfacing clearly.

Another Stack Exchange answer suggests a useful test: run a known-good zone, then manually activate the problem zone at the same time. If opening the problem zone reduces the good zone’s spray, water is going somewhere (possibly through a broken pipe). If it doesn’t affect the good zone at all, the problem zone’s valve may not be opening properly.

If all zones are bad, think upstream. The issue is likely with the shutoff valve, backflow preventer, mainline, master valve, controller power, rain sensor, municipal water pressure, or a pressure regulator.

Electrical Problems vs. Water-Flow Problems

A sprinkler controller doesn’t push water. It sends a low-voltage signal (typically 24 VAC) to a solenoid, which opens a valve, which lets water flow. The electrical side and the water side must both work. When they’re confused, people replace the wrong part.

The manual valve test is the quickest way to separate the two. Most irrigation valves have a bleed screw or a manual turn on the solenoid. If you open the valve manually and get full pressure, the water supply is fine. The problem is likely on the electrical side: controller, wiring, common wire, solenoid, or valve pilot passage.

If you open the valve manually and still get weak or no water, the problem is on the water side: shutoff, backflow, mainline, broken pipe, or flow restriction.

This matches what Hunter’s troubleshooting documentation recommends: check manual bleed, confirm water supply, verify master valve operation, check for clogged ports, and measure voltage at controller terminals and valve splices before assuming a component has failed source.

Leaking Head, Low-Head Drainage, or Leaking Valve?

These three conditions look similar (water coming from heads when it shouldn’t) but have different causes and different fixes.

If water seeps from heads briefly after shutdown and then stops, that’s probably low-head drainage. If it keeps going, suspect the valve. If the area is wet even when the system hasn’t run in days, suspect the mainline.

Why Sprinkler System Issues Matter in Lubbock

West Texas heat and wind make every sprinkler problem worse. A misaligned head that wastes 10% of its water in a mild climate wastes more here, because wind carries mist away and evaporation is aggressive. But climate isn’t the only reason to fix sprinkler system issues promptly in Lubbock.

City watering rules are specific. Lubbock’s spring and summer irrigation guidelines restrict watering to midnight through 10:00 a.m. and 6:00 p.m. through midnight on assigned watering days. Irrigation should stay below 1.5 inches per zone per week. Sunday watering is off limits, and systems should not run when temperatures are below 35°F or during precipitation source.

City code goes further. Operating an irrigation system with a controllable leak, including broken or missing sprinkler heads, leaking valves, or leaking and broken pipes, can be an offense under Lubbock’s code. The code also addresses misting from excessive water pressure and significant runoff source. Design requirements for certain automatic systems include heads spraying only toward landscaped surfaces, zonal design, master valve requirements, and weather/freeze/rain safeguards.

These aren’t abstract rules. A broken head spraying into the street or a stuck valve flooding a sidewalk can create real compliance problems on top of the water waste.

When to Call a Sprinkler Professional

Some sprinkler system issues are safe to observe and troubleshoot yourself. Others are not. Here’s a practical threshold.

Call a professional when:

• A leak is underground or you can’t locate the source

• A zone runs when the controller is completely off

• A valve box is flooded

• One zone has persistent low pressure after you’ve checked for clogged heads and nozzle problems

• Multiple zones fail at the same time

• You suspect wiring, controller, common wire, solenoid, or master valve issues

• Misting occurs across multiple zones (indicating a system-wide pressure problem)

• Water is spraying onto streets, sidewalks, or neighboring properties

• Runoff is occurring despite reasonable runtimes

• Backflow testing, repair, replacement, or certification is needed

• You need pressure regulation, smart monitoring, or design and coverage corrections

Hunter warns that opening a valve under pressure is dangerous. Observe symptoms, mark problem areas, and check controller settings freely. But leave pressurized valve disassembly and underground leak detection to someone who does it regularly.

If you need sprinkler repair in Lubbock, getting the diagnosis right the first time saves money and water.

How to Prevent Recurring Sprinkler System Issues

The best time to catch problems is before peak watering season exposes them. As a LinkedIn practitioner from ValveMan noted, many irrigation failures aren’t sudden. They result from small issues ignored before the season, such as dirty filters, worn seals, or uncalibrated pressure, that compound under high demand.

Monthly during watering season:

• Run each zone during daylight and walk the property

• Look for heads that don’t pop up, tilted heads, broken heads, pooling, and overspray

• Check valve boxes for standing water

• Note any new dry spots or soggy areas

Seasonally or annually:

• Adjust runtimes for the season (spring, summer, fall, winter)

• Clean or replace clogged nozzles

• Confirm rain/freeze sensor operation

• Check backflow preventer status and schedule testing if due

• Correct head-to-head coverage problems

• Use cycle-and-soak where runoff occurs

• Consider pressure regulation where misting occurs

The EPA’s “Sprinkler Spruce-Up” framework recommends four steps: inspect, connect, direct, and select. Inspect for broken heads and leaks. Confirm connections are tight. Direct sprinklers toward the landscape, not hardscapes. Select efficient nozzles, pressure-regulated bodies, and WaterSense-labeled controllers source.

Recurring system checks catch small leaks, clogged heads, coverage problems, and seasonal programming issues before they show up as water bills or dead grass. M&M’s sprinkler maintenance plans include scheduled wellness checks, seasonal runtime programming, head adjustment, leak checks, valve operation confirmation, and repair discounts. The Technology Plan adds live flow monitoring with break and clog alerts, pressure regulation, efficient nozzles, weather-based programming, and priority response within 48 hours of an alert.

Homeowner Language vs. Professional Terms

If you’re trying to describe your problem to a technician, this quick reference helps.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is one sprinkler zone weaker than the others?

The most common causes are a leak in the lateral line, a clogged nozzle or filter, a valve that’s only partially opening (due to debris, solenoid issues, or wiring), too many heads on that zone, or a design problem. Start by comparing spray to a zone you know works well. If you find a soggy area between the valve and the heads, that’s a strong sign of a pipe leak.

Why do my sprinklers run when the controller is off?

This almost always points to a valve problem: debris holding the diaphragm open, a bleed screw that’s been left cracked open, a solenoid turned to the manual-on position, or a damaged valve. Less commonly, a wiring short can send power to a valve continuously. If water flows the moment you turn on the irrigation supply with the controller off, treat it as a valve or line issue, not a scheduling issue.

Why are sprinkler heads leaking after the zone shuts off?

If the leaking stops within a few minutes, it’s likely low-head drainage, meaning residual water in the pipes is draining through the lowest heads by gravity. If it continues indefinitely, the zone valve is probably not sealing due to debris, a worn diaphragm, or a damaged seat.

Should I increase watering time if I see dry spots?

Not as a first step. Adding runtime to compensate for a coverage problem oversoaks the areas already receiving adequate water. Check head alignment, clogged nozzles, pressure, and leaks first. The Saving Water Partnership specifically recommends adjusting or replacing nozzles before increasing watering time for brown spots.

Do sprinkler systems need backflow testing in Texas?

Yes, in many situations. Texas Administrative Code requires testing by a licensed BPAT upon installation, repair, replacement, or relocation. Assemblies used in irrigation systems designated as health hazards must be tested annually. Local water provider rules may add additional requirements. M&M provides backflow testing and certification with their Texas-licensed tester.

Can a bad controller cause sprinkler problems?

Absolutely. Controllers can fail, lose programming after a power outage, send insufficient voltage, run the wrong program, or fail to activate valves. If a valve works when manually opened but not from the controller, the controller, transformer, wiring, or common wire is worth investigating.

Is a smart controller worth the investment?

The EPA says replacing a clock-based controller with a WaterSense-labeled controller can save up to 15,000 gallons annually for an average home. In Lubbock, where outdoor water use is a large share of the bill and watering restrictions apply, weather-based scheduling offers both savings and easier compliance.

When should I schedule a sprinkler system inspection?

Before peak watering season, after a freeze, after any landscape construction, after an unusually high water bill, when zones start behaving differently from each other, or when dry or wet spots appear. The worst time to discover sprinkler system issues is during a July heat wave when every irrigation company in town has a full schedule. Learn more about M&M’s approach to sprinkler service and why catching problems early matters.

Many sprinkler system issues look purely mechanical at first glance. But in West Texas, the real answer often involves a combination of water pressure, soil conditions, scheduling, local watering rules, and sometimes even tree stress or root competition. M&M’s irrigation and tree-care team, which includes licensed irrigators, certified arborists, and a TDA chemical applicator, can look at the whole picture: water, soil, and plants. If your system is showing symptoms, contact M&M Sprinklers to get it diagnosed correctly the first time.